TBK cooks - Keralan Fish Curry

 

They call Kerala "God's country" and with pictures like this which I took at Eravikulam National Park in Muneer, Kerala, you can see why. I was in search of a rare mountain goat when I turned the corner to find a group of Indian schoolboys on a school trip. They were so excited to see a white man they all asked to have their photos taken with me.

As well as spectacular scenery they have amazing food and I was delighted to find a recipe for Keralan Fish curry in Madhur Jaffrey’s Curry Nation – Britain’s 100 favourite curries which I treated myself to for Christmas 2020. One of the first recipes I cooked on New Year's eve was this lovely Fish Curry which I shared with my then gardener , Shji, who was from Kerala. Since then its become a favourite of mine so I wanted to share the recipe with you.

For those of you who know the UK this particular recipe was contributed by Claire Fisher who is Head Chef and Owner of The Ganapati Restaurant in Peckham that  specialises in South Indian Food. In case you did not realise from the name , Claire is not Indian! In London they use frozen Kingfish , in Kerala it would be fresh, and in Bahrain I used Salmon ( but according to Jaffrey, 2012 you could also use Tuna Loin, Prawns or Fresh Mackerel Fillets) .

Source: Jaffrey, M 2021: Madhur Jaffrey’s Curry Nation, Britain’s 100 favourite curries. London: Ebury Press.

One of my favourite photos that I took as the fishermen returned from a nights fishing in the Indian Ocean in Kerala.

If you have not yet visited Kerala yet then you really must. I had an amazing 2 weeks there in October 2013 and I only visited half of the area. My friend Sajid keeps asking me to return and see his new house, and Max has offered to take me on a tour of his home ,Thrissur, and the surrounding area in 2024. It was amazing seeing them catch the fish from the Indian ocean and laze by the backwaters and on the Houseboat near Alleppey, and I cannot wait to go back.

As usual, for those who have never visited Kerala , here is a bit of background from our friends at Wikipedia:

"Kerala (English: /ˈkɛrələ/; Malayalam: [ke:ɾɐɭɐm] (listen)) is a state on the Malabar Coast of India.^[13] It was formed on 1 November 1956, following the passage of the States Reorganisation Act, by combining Malayalam-speaking regions of the erstwhile regions of Cochin, Malabar, South Canara, and Travancore.^[14][15] Spread over 38,863 km² (15,005 sq mi), Kerala is the twenty-first largest Indian state by area. It is bordered by Karnataka to the north and northeast, Tamil Nadu to the east and south, and the Lakshadweep Sea^[16] to the west. With 33,406,061 inhabitants as per the 2011 Census, and with an estimated 35,699,400 at mid 2020,^[17] Kerala is the thirteenth-largest Indian state by population. It is divided into 14 districts with the capital being Thiruvananthapuram. Malayalam is the most widely spoken language and is also the official language of the state.^[18]"

Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerala ( accessed 28.6.21) 

So how do they make their fish curry?

Keralan Fish Curry

Ingredients for 4 people

2 medium onions , halved and finely sliced

1 red onion , halved and finely sliced

40- 50 fresh curry leaves

3 hot green chilis, slit but left whole

15 g ginger , peeled and cut into fine Julienne

2 large tomatoes , each cut into eight wedges

One and a half teaspoons chili powder

Half a teaspoon Turmeric

1 tablespoon ground Coriander

1 tablespoon tomato puree

4 tablespoons olive or sunflower oil

Half a teaspoon Fenugreek seeds

2 teaspoons Tamarind Concentrate

One and a half teaspoons salt

400 g can of coconut milk ( shaken well) 

2 tablespoons desiccated coconut

2 teaspoons coconut oil

800g boneless 2 cm chunks of Kingfish ( or Salmon, Tuna Loin, Fresh Mackerel Fillets or Prawns) 

Method

Take a large bowl and mix the two types of onion, half the curry leaves, the chilies, ginger, tomatoes, chili powder, turmeric, ground coriander and tomato puree . Then mix in 750 ml of water. In a large ( 25 cm diameter) pan heat the Olive oil and when it's hot drop in the Fenugreek seeds. Stir and fry them for a few seconds until they turn light brown and then pour in the onion and tomato mixture. 

Cook for 50- 55 minutes partially covered , stirring occasionally and mashing the tomatoes into the sauce.

While making this dish I had an accident with my Chinese made spatula from Ramez ( the people who have lived in Bahrain will understand - but for the Brits its like Pounstretcher!) . It hit something hard and makulit and Chester renamed it Spankula! My Houseboys will understand that one ( Palo sa Pwet for my Kabayan) !

Back to the recipe....

Next add the Tamarind concentrate and stir cooking uncovered for 10 minutes before adding the salt. Then pour in the coconut milk and desiccated coconut and mix well. Finally add the remining curry leaves and the coconut oil , bring it to the boil and then reduce the heat and simmer. Now is the time to add the fish to the pan.

                     The cubed salmon ready to add to the curry

Poach the fish in the pan until it is just cooked through and then serve in a bed of Basmati rice , or with Paratha or Naan or Poppadum and chutneys or Mango Salsa. 

                          The British Kabayan's Keralan Fish Curry

           

                                 Shji watering my garden in Awali back in 2015

Just one final story on the subject of Kerala and Keralites. I mentioned my Gardener in Awali, Shji, was from Kerala .  Every Friday morning for 11 years I served him breakfast ( Omlette, fish curry, and other dishes from India like Chicken Cafrael) with a piece of kitchen towel wrapped around a fork and spoon. He ate at the garden table outside so I never saw him eat. It was only when Max came to stay and I gave him a spoon and fork with his Kerala Fish curry that he reminded me that Indians usually eat with their hand rather than cutlery! I then realised that Shji had not washed and returned the cutlery every Friday for 11 years, he just never used it! I wish he had told me earlier.

To quote Anias Nin:

"We see the world not as it is , but as we are"

A white Middle class priveledged English man assumes that as he eats in 5 star hotels with cutlery so does everyone else!

                           My beautiful garden in Awali , created and maintained by Shji

I hope you enjoy your Kerala Fish curry, wherever you are in the world and however you choose to eat it!

Thanks to Claire for sharing the recipe ( If you are in London pay her a visit in Peckham) . Also to Madhur Jaffrey for his amazing recipe book with curries from Kashmir, Nepal, Bengal, Pakistan, Kerala, Goa, Punjab, Tamil Nadu, Bangladesh and Gujarat. I have had a lot of fun cooking Indian dishes for my amazing Indian friends in Bahrain like Shji, Carl Max, Shji, Alpesh, Mittal, Vidhi and Mahrashi.

Thanks to Carl Max for fact checking the blog, to Chester for the video clip and "spanktula" and above all, to Shji for looking after my garden so well for 11 years.

Until the next dish from Curry Nation this is The British Kabayan signing out for this week.

Please stay safe, wash your hands, wear your mask and keep your distance

For my Kabayan- Ingat Palagi, Kita kits, Inshallah!