TBK remembers the Isle of Skye - TBK in 2024!

Happy New Year from the British Kabayan or in Tagalog we say "Maligayang bagong Taon" Ang taong 2024 ay ang pangalawang taon ko bilang retirado sa isla ng Palawan, at si Chester at ako ay magkakaroon ng iba't ibang karanasan na ibabahagi namin sa inyo dito sa aking blog. Maraming salamat kay Luis para sa mga bagong TBK cartoons!

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Thursday, October 12, 2023

TBK remembers the Isle of Skye


Recently I read about a guy travelling to the tip of Scotland by train and ferry. The ferries in the Scottish Isles are run by a company called Caledonian MacBrayne or “Cal Mac” for short. The picture above shows my car, the first on the Ferry. Quite often there would be flocks of sheep as well as tractors. Lorries and cars.

You can read more about Cal Mac on their website:

https://www.calmac.co.uk/things-to-do/island-hopping-adventures

That bought back many happy memories of travelling to the Isle of Skye on vacation. For those not familiar with Scotland here is a map showing what a long journey that was (yes even further than travelling to El Nido!) 10 hours and 31 minutes from my home in the Midlands, 516 miles.

The Isle of Skye is now connected to the mainland by an expensive toll bridge but being scared of heights and loving to travel by boat, even after the bridge opened, I still used the ferry. One time I took the steam train from Fort William to Mallaig (the Jacobite express as featured on Harry Potter) and we crossed the wonderful Glenfinnan Viaduct.


This was my third attempt to go on the train- the first time I just turned up , not realising you had to book several weeks in advance. The second time I booked, but for the wrong date, and even on my third attempt I left the ticket at home, but they still let me board!

So if you want to travel on this wonderful train book well in advance. The link for their website is below:

https://westcoastrailways.co.uk/jacobite/steam-train-trip

I stayed overnight in Mallaig and had my telephone interview for my job in Bahrain from there back in July 2009. I even found a photo of my notes for the interview when i was researching this blog!

 

                                              opps - given the game away!


On Skye I found a hotel to stay in which I used several times, The Dunvegan Inn. It was small and friendly with a bar and restaurant. It was run by two lovely ladies and I was always given a warm welcome when I returned. They always suggested places to visit or walks to do and so I was kept busy (apart from when the weather was so bad, I could not get out – which happens a lot on Skye!)


                                       The hotel as it was in 2009

 In my research I found that it has since changed hands and now has a deli and restaurant as well as 6 guest bedrooms. When I stayed my bedroom was at the back with a view of Loch Dunvegan behind. I remember once walking around the Loch and up the hills behind. 


             The view from the room I stayed in at the Dunvegan hotel

If you want to find out more about the new owners and how they have redeveloped the property and survived COV 19 they have a website here:

https://thedunvegan.com/our-story/

Back then I used to drink and the Island had two breweries which I visited and a distillery (where they make Whiskey!)


I remember buying an Isle of Skye brewery tee shirt and someone saying - "wow you have come a long way" when I wore it on vacation once!

If you want to read more about this, the first brewery on Skye, click here:

https://skyeale.com/brewery/


The second brewery I visited on Skye was at Cuillin. This is a small 5 barrel brewery making local ales. If you want to find out more visit their website here:

https://cuillinbrewery.com/

There are also several distilleries making Whiskey on the Island and back in 2009 I visited the Talisker distillery. For more information you can visit their website by clicking the link below:

https://www.distillerytours.scot/distilleries/talisker-distillery-visitor-centre

Here you will find that:

"Talisker is the oldest working distillery on the Isle of Skye set on the shores of Loch Harport with dramatic views of the Cuillins. Producing an alluring, sweet, full-bodied single malt that is so easy to enjoy, and like Skye itself, so hard to leave. Visit their website for more information and to book your Talisker tour, tasting or experience. Advanced booking for tours and tasting is recommended, particularly over the summer months, to avoid disappointment."


I also went to the Kylerhea Otter Haven after reading a book about Otters. According to their website:

"This is one of the best places in Britain to spot otters and other marine mammals.

The sheltered hide is easy to get to, along a short, interesting trail. Inside you'll find fascinating facts about otters, dolphins, sharks and more.

All sorts of mammals have swum in the sea around Kylerhea – including cows!"

If you want to find out more click here:

https://forestryandland.gov.scot/visit/kylerhea#:~:text=This%20is%20one%20of%20the,sea%20around%20Kylerhea%20%E2%80%93%20including%20cows!


                              My car at Calum's Road on Skye

Another trip, on Skye, inspired by a book was to Calum’s Road. I will not spoil the book but it is the tale of a man who lived on Skye, and when the authorities refused to build a road to his house, he did it himself! Below is a picture of the plaque that tells the story on the road. Unlike Gerda on her Norwegian trip I got scared when the fog rolled in and being a single track road decided to turn around very carefully and head back.


               Calum Macleod built the 1.75 mile Calum's road alone over 10  
                           years between Mid 1960 and Mid 1970

"Calum MacLeod's achievement is all the greater when you realise that he combined his road building activities with a job as a keeper in the lighthouse on Rona and with tending the crops and animals on his croft at Arnish. "Calum's Road" has entered the folklore of the Highlands and Islands as the classic example of the intelligent and well-read crofter taking on officialdom and, after decades of persistent effort, winning. He was commemorated in song by Capercaillie on their Album, "The Blood is Strong", produced in 1988 shortly after his death at the age of 77. More recently his story has reached a still wider audience thanks to Roger Hutchinson's bestselling 2006 book "Calum's Road"."

Source: https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/raasay/calumsroad/index.html

This is the link for the book: 

https://www.amazon.com/Calums-Road-Roger-Hutchinson/dp/1841586773

For the Linguists amongst you Gaelic was spoken on Skye and appeared on the road signs along with English.


              Driving across Skye from the ferry in the south to Dunvegan in the north

I hope you have enjoyed this week's blog on my various trips to the Isle of Skye. It bought back many happy memories for me! One of the things I had forgotten was that my brother Andrew often travelled to Scotland ( where he worked for many years ) and Skye was a favourite of his too. One year he suggested I tried the award winning Three Chimneys restaurant there and I remember having a wonderful meal there. I was delighted to see , when writing this blog, that it still has it's Michelin Star and has now been running for 35 years. I fear that at 63 years old it is too late for me to return for a meal , a trip on Cal Mac, or a stay in Dunvegan- but my happy memories live on. 

However if you want to visit The Three Chimneys, or just to see some photos and read more about it, click here:

https://threechimneys.co.uk/gallery/eat


 
 

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