The view for my farewell to Muscat lunch at CHAR at the W Hotel in Muscat
I decided to splash out on a nice lunch once I got the all clear from my Bells Palsy on my last day in Muscat. I went to the W hotel where they have two restaurants on the Trip Advisor "highly recommended list"- Wet Deck ( by the pool) and CHAR (upstairs overlooking the pool and the sea) . I selected CHAR and asked for a nice table by the window . As I was the first customer to arrive they gave me a table for 4 with a fabulous view. The service was excellent and fast and the food beautifully presented. Having been given strict instructions by my driver "Dr Khalid" on the way there I had Quinoa salad, Tuna and Salad, no dessert and Earl Grey tea, and of course, San Pellegrino. It was a lovely way to say goodbye to Muscat and my Bell's Palsy! Usually it takes 3 weeks to 9 months to recover from this horrible disease, and I did it in 2 weeks- thanks to everyone who assisted and prayed for me.
My Tuna with a lemon and butter sauce and salad
Before lunch Dr Khalid and I went to the Grand Mall for some gym socks and winter socks from Carrefour, ready for my trip to Salalah . Then we went to the Post Office to send my second round of Postcards and a Gujarat festival greeting card ( hand made) to Vidhi and Marashi in Awali! The Post Office was so cute I asked Dr. Khalid to take a picture. It looked so old but was all computerized and we had to take a ticket ( Mine was 15) and sit and wait. There were 4 customers sat with 4 staff and it was only showing number 5 on the screen, and there was only one other customer behind us. The man clicked it on to number 6 and we all waited, and then he called us over! I had to give my phone number in Oman ( Crowne Plaza ) and then each item was weighed and entered on the computer and I was given a 2 page A4 receipt. They did not accept cash so I had to pay by Credit Card - 5 Omani Riyal / BHD ( 10 GBP) for 6 postcards to the UK, One to Austria and an A4 envelope to Awali. That really is the last time I am sending postcards!
TBK outside the Oman Post office in Muscat
After all my chores were done we returned to the hotel, completed some paperwork to do with one of my Pension schemes that my brother had sent me , and then finished packing. I had some fruit salad and orange juice at 6 pm ( which we purchased from Carrefour) and then my final Room service dinner at 7 pm and an early night.
My last breakfast in the sun at Mosaic
I went to sleep early and woke a 2 am (I hate travelling) and checked my social media accounts- there was conflicting advice from 3 people who wanted me to eat more healthily. “Eat scrambled eggs made with 3 eggs” said one, “only eat one egg every other day” said another whilst the third suggested “green smoothie kale based morning drinks”. The last did the trick and I rushed to the toilet to throw up! As a result, or maybe its coming off the steroids, I got down to this weeks target of 117 kg (from 121 Kg) – a loss of 4kg in 2 weeks ( “It won’t last” I hear my brother saying.)
My favourite part of the whole three month vacation was when I told him I had already paid for an extra 30 kg baggage ( by mistake , as it happens in my on line check in ) . He checked on his computer and begrudgingly said “Oh yes, so you have!” I think he got revenge by calling a friend as my Titanium leg set off the alarm and I was taken for a private room for a “more detailed search!” . Bastard! Strange how it set off the alarm in Dubai and Muscat but not Bahrain!
The empty Food court at Muscat's new international airport
The good news is that within 30 mins of arriving at the airport I was at the food court. The bad news was it consisted of KFC and McDonalds- so much for healthy eating. I eventually found a food cart with a Pinay selling salad and then sat in the deserted seating area with every other seat labeled “keep empty”. However that did not stop the usual ”man with a mobile” sit two seats away and spend 15 minutes telling someone all about how small his bag was and how full his flight was ( I really hate listening to other peoples sexual problems in airports!). I saw a sign saying "No trolleys past here" but I think all airports should have one saying "no mobiles past here"
Healthy salad, approved by Richard Atkinson
Eventually,
after eating my salad I went to my gate 2 hours early .In case you are
wondering why I was so early my brother, in an email commenting on my being
late for the Muscat flight from Dubai said:
"We have found that you have to allow more time going through the airports and then get pleasantly surprised when there are no queues."
To board a domestic flight in this new high Tec airport you check in on line 48 hours before your flight , print your boarding pass and scan it at the gate and it lets you through- very impressive - like the smart gates in Dubai.
The modern artistic but uncomfortable seats at the airport
Sadly, the
modern seats at Muscat’s new airport are very artistic but uncomfortable and
it’s very hard to balance a laptop on your knee. Being two hours early the gate
and lounge beyond it were closed.
I had an International Incident on the plane when we finally boarded and as my Zone was last I found someone in my window seat. I called the hostess who called the steward who asked him to move in English and Arabic but he refused.
I screamed it was the second time in 2 Oman air flights someone had taken the seat I selected and paid for. Although there were 3 empty seats in first class they refused to give me a free upgrade, and instead said they would report the matter and asked me to write to Oman Air to complain (I am still awaiting their reply)
The guy in front ,a Phillipino , was asked to move from his window seat but refused saying the same had happened to him twice. The lady ( Omani with 2 boys and a nanny) wanted their nanny to have the aisle seat opposite her to look after the kids ( so I would have been squashed between an Indian Nanny and fat old Omani)
Finally when the wheelchair pushers got off they realised there was an aisle seat next to first class and one empty seat from the Pinoy, so I was offered that .
We finally took off late due to a load of passengers arriving after the boarding time. I had a lovely flight with a spare seat next to me .I found out that the Pinoy was in the oil industry and we chatted all the way. Thee old man got the Indian nanny and two screaming Omani boys jumping all over him and the boys mother had 3 seats to herself and slept all the way!
The Pinoy and I were ushered off with first class and the grumpy old man was asked to wait!! We cleared the airport in 15 mins and then the taxi driver said he had never heard of the Grand Flora Hotel , and asked if I meant the Grand Mall?! His colleague explained where the hotel was and he drove straight there in silence!
The final hotel of my trip, the newest and the cheapest
Once I checked in they had to try 5 black boxes to get the TV working. Yet again I have a room without a kettle . When the receptionist read the booking.com request for a room with a view she said- "front road or back road". I said which is nicer and she replied "front" ,just!
The ground floor coffee shop open from 12- 3 and 7- 10
I unpacked for one last time and went to try out the Meal Deals for 1.5 Omani Riyal advertised in the room ( 1.5 bd / 3 GBP/ 202 Peso) - sadly they all had rice or fries and several were not available! I ended up having pasta with a chicken sauce which was , surprisingly very pleasant.
The next morning ( Sat 25 September) I woke up early as usual and reached out for the kettle to make my coffee and realised there was none! The coffee shop was closed and I ended up walking for 15 minutes to a petrol station where they had 2 coffee shops called PURE COFFEE. The staff were very pleasant, it was very busy with a constant stream of Talabat drivers picking up cups of coffee and I sat in the sun with my Americano, Fresh orange juice and filled warm fresh croissant as I have every day this week ( 3 bd for croissant, coffee and freshly squeezed juice)
My breakfast each day from Pure Coffee , a 15 minute walk from the hotel
I then went back, by Taxi to my favourite hotel in Salalah, the Crown Plaza which I visited many times during Ramadan in 2014 when I stayed at the nearby Salalah beach villas. I explained I had come form the Crown Plaza in Muscat and wanted to use the hotel facilities on a daily basis as I had in 2014. She said that due to COV 19 the Oman Government would not allow non residents in the hotel. I explained that was strange as the previous week I had paid 25 OR to use the facilities at the crown Plaza on Muscat. The other Pinoy receptionist jumped in and said I was right, the rules had changed the day before, and her colleague was not told - she apologised and directed me to the pool where I paid my 10 Riyal ( no increase for 7 years, amazing!)
The Crown Plaza in Salalah used to be the only hotel on the beach back in 2014
After a swim in the hot, deep , empty pool I had a long walk on the beach back to where I used to stay in 2014, Salalah Beach Villas, which was under renovation, and the nearby Salalah Beach hotel where I used to eat curry at night ( same Indian Owner) . Then I walked back to the Crown Plaza's new restaurant, Ocean Blue for a salad lunch sat outside in the sun listening to the waves crashing on the beach.
The old Salalah Beach villas where I stayed on the top floor on the left in 2014
The new Ocean Blue restaurant on the beach at the Crown Plaza, Salalah
After lunch and filming for my Vlog on Salalah I went to the Health Centre and booked a massage for the next day before getting a Taxi back to the Grand Flora Hotel for dinner. The taxi driver, an old Omani, was rude and had no idea where the hotel was - "You mean the Grand Mall?" and then tried to charge me 5 Riyal. He told me that was the rate and I said the hotel receptionist told me it was 2 Riyal, which I had paid to go from the Grand Flora to the Crown Plaza, so how could the return journey be 5 Riyal? I later found out he charges more as he has to wait for passengers all day as the CP is deserted! Having already hidden my money in my bag I theatrically emptied my wallet and said "Maffee Money" and gave him 2 OR and ran to the hotel as he sat amazed outside!
Pasta with Lemon Mint and Earl Grey tea at the Grand Flora Hotel
Dinner at Grand Flora was no better- still no white rice chicken curry so I had mushroom pasta and Lemon Mint with Earl Grey tea. As they ran out of Earl Grey tea I then gave them my Earl Grey tea which I bought in Muscat!
I celebrated the 75 th day of my vacation with a tour from the nice taxi driver who took me to the Crowne Plaza for 2 OR, Saeed. He collected me at 9 am and first we went to Ayn al Zaytl to see a beautiful clear stream where the water runs down from the mountains and turns everything in its path green. The climate in Salalah is unique in the Gulf due to its position on the south Coast of Oman.
Saudi, Qatar, Bahrain , UAE ( including Dubai) and Muscat are all on the Northern coast whereas Salalah is on the other side of the Mountains in the south.
In June, July, August ( and sometimes September but not this year) Salalah is blanketed by daily heavy Monsoon rain ( the Khareef as its known locally) and as Saeed explained "It goes dark and no one goes out". When the rain and high seas finally clear, just before I arrived , the sun comes out and everything goes green. It is an amazing transformation from the dessert sand to lush greenery.
Saeed beside the stream at Ayn al Zaytl- the water was so clear and full of fish
When we left, after filming for my Vlog and taking lots of Pictures, and walking down the stream and up to an old cave we hit a traffic jam !
The camels caused a Traffic Jam on our way out of Ayn al Zaytl
Saeed explained there are more camels than people in Dhofar ( the region where Salalah is located) and at this time of year they come down from the wet mountains to the sea for a short time and then disappear again. ( Fact check- there are more camels per person in Oman than anywhere in the world but more camels in total in Australia)
Our destination was Wadi Dhabat but on the way Saeed showed me his magnificent new house which he has been building for a year with his money from the army ( he has now retired). We also stopped to watch the fishing for Sardines and the coconuts being harvested on the beach in Taqah . At this time of year there are so many sardines close to the sure you can just walk in and pick them up. We watched these two guys get two nets full in a few minutes ( you can see video of this on TBK Vlog ( Click here- like and subscribe!)
On the beach in Taqah- fishing with just a net
You can watch the guys fishing for Sardines on my Vlog
Finally we drove down the narrow one way roads into the mountains to the most famous Wadi in Dhofar. As it was a weekday and after the Khareef and the kids had gone back to school the roads were clear. Saeed explained it can take up to an hour to get there in the Khareef when the Wadi is in full flow. It was the most amazing sight and we saw Philippinos, Omanis and other tourists taking photos, exploring and getting fresh fruit and water from a small stall by the Wadi.
Hard to believe this is in the dessert! More pictures on TBK Facebook page!
Eventually we headed back to Salalah via The Fanar Hotel and Residences (next to the Rotana Resort) where there are houses for sale in the picturesque setting next to the sea with restaurants and shops. It was around 1pm and the place was deserted but Saeed explained that, like many places in the Gulf, it gets very busy in the evening from 4 pm when the sun goes down and it cools down. As I looked around the modern resort I realised I prefer the older resorts and hotels like the Crowne Plazas at Muscat Qurum and in Salalah and the Heritage Hotel in Manila where I have stayed for 11 years. They may be old and run down but they have character and history.
The Fanar Hotel and Residences, Hawana waterfront villas
Finally we returned to the Grand Flora where I had a rest before heading down to dinner at 7 pm and trying the Chicken Biryani. Sadly it was just some chicken bones covered with rice- not as good as the one I make! I am definitely going to have to venture out in the evenings next week!
The Grand Flora hotel Chicken Biryani
My seafood salad at the Crowne Plaza Ocean Blue Restaurant ( which I also had as a take out for my Thursday dinner.
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